UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO LINKS
Fred Wah
From: So Far. Vancouver: Talonbooks, 1991.
Dead In My Tracks: Wildcat Creek Utaniki Saturday, July 29/89Oh golden, Golden morning! West of Golden we leave the trans-Canada and drive north about 60 k up Blaeberry River past Doubt Hill. From the chopper site we can see south to Howes Pass , a long sweep of valley brilliant in a pillowed mid-summer heat-haze. An hour's spent wrapping the cars and trucks in chicken wire (old paranoid alpine parking-lot visions of the imaginary porker chewing our tires and rad hoses). Camp's just west, a ten-minute bezier curve, swirl, and plop up Wildcat Creek, on a west slope facing east to the contintental divide ridgeline of the B.C./Alberta boundary. My Borders are Altitude and silent a pawprint's cosine (broken breaths contour intervals at the next 100 feet and then the sky-remembered night on the plateau above the Saskatchewan Qu'appele oh stars what solitude your blue line and flight or weight the inverse holds me shoulder-to-shoulder my clouds as alpine meadows Newton would have cut yet minds find bandwidth in this topos-parabola chaos around the earth houseHere's this stone under heathered turf back bent as I dig and ruffle sacrum drawn to the music a slow and daily pelvic tilt of elevation is this numbered boundary nowhere, I'm close to 7000 here, maybe I'll just do the horse not to hold the world just touch, complete the circuit borders such thin thoughts (apples of our eyes) selvage yesterday's Tiananmen a power-line buzz above, along my spine, my legs go up and down heart all summer-heavy with the people Sunday, July 30 We hike east across the valley toward Mistaya Mountain, as far as a scree slope on the south side of a grano-diorite carbuncle so massive we're left only to pick and chip below the heel of. Each rock vectors through the eyes to the height of the stomach and stops me, dazzles, dead in my tracks. Such singular surfaces are impossible to avoid. Eyes tumble click, stop and stare, stop, stare at pink molten sunset rivers of limestone, sawtooth schist embedded. But at this rate the hike's all history, pleistocene. No animals, no print, no scat. (Goat tracks? Too faint now to be sure.)
Today we climb the same side of the valley as yesterday. But now we've taken a keep-more-to-the-left route to a neck or col between Alberta and B.C., under Mistaya. Lunch beside a snowpatch lake.
Alberta looks busy from this side; Jasper/Banff another of those new equations to satisfy war's glacial thirst. Ice-blue sky-line jet-tracked.
I didn't sleep very well last night because I had to get up as breakfast helper this morning - fretted about the alarm on my wrist-watch being loud enough and so now mid-afternoon, sit on a slope above what the camp's come to call "crystal gardens" on the cool (windy) side of a grassy knoll tired and lulled by the rush of waterfall across the valley and above this alleyway that led us here full of crystals dangled and hidden for years we poke under little rock ledges. Quiet here. Light breeze to keep the horseflies down. I glass across a valley to a slope, for yesterday's tracks, but they've melted out. Pan back to a blurry knoll of purple yellow red pink and white on green with songs (I Don't want a Sickle) I can't get out of my head and there're the others, after-lunch sprawl on the heather, Pauline reading in her flower book.
Hand-held PictostoneNew moon tonight. Wednesday A wet day. Drizzle started last night after days of heat. The snow-line is about 8500 feet this morning. Very cool all day, off and on rain and sleet, some hail. And no respite tonight so now I sit/lie in our tent at 9 p.m. still light enough to write. I've put on my toque and gloves. No thought. Just body. A few of us walked up the valley on the other side of Wildcat Creek and crossed many feeder creeks and the glacier river at the head of the valley. I had to take off my pants and boots once. The water came up to just above the knees. Memoried on and off all day crossing Toby morraine years ago with my brother and Loki and how that crossing, just below the crotch, rejuvenated bruised ligaments. This time my feet remain ice all day. All these rocks. Constant mirror and prescence in my eyes. More rocks than grains of sand in the whole world, I bet someone. Intricate pattern, surface, keeps stopping boot in pitch for eye to zoom. Sometimes I stop and try translating the imago-grammatic surfaces. What do I look for? This I-Chinging the earth for some other Gate of Heavenly Peace, monotoned loudspeaker in the Square signalling "Go home and save your life," old, embedded said-again family bone-names?
This morning I sit in the tent writing and try to situate the play in this place. The world today feels all stage. Nothing moves. A set set. There are the huge mist hackles clinging to the mountains, but no history.
This last day we hike up to the col between Peto and Mistaya but get caught in a cold mist/fog. Just behind the gauze the oval of the sun teases. The cover didn't break so we don't go further than the snow field. We spend the rest of the day circumnavigating the head of the valley and several glacial lips up and down and home and that's eight and a half hours to a spaghetti dinner and the sky lifting to a blue evening. Now nearly 9 o'clock and the mosquitoes, after days of rain, are up for it. Out of the corner of my eye more rocks. And out an ear I hear a few birds sing their particular song, not solitary: the creeks rush and gurgle down to the valley below. In a corner of my mind is tomorrow's two and half hour hike out to the trailhead and then the long drive home. But nowhere else.
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Fred Wah's works copyright © to the author.